Frenchmans Cap is an iconic Tasmanian bushwalk. It’s even more epic running it in a single day. I think it should be on everyone’s epic Tassie trail running mission checklist. I ran it a couple of weeks ago for the second time and for my fourth time to the summit. Even after four trips the place continues to captivate. Every trip is a unique and worthwhile journey.
| Date | 30 Sept 2023 |
| Dist | 45.35km |
| Elevation | 2620m |
| Time | 8:30:52 |
| Strava | Activity Link |
Hatching a Plan
Dan my friend and defacto brother in law sent me a message on Wednesday morning suggesting we go out of some kind of running mission over the weekend. Dan is always looking for the next big mission. He only just got back from 6 weeks away doing two adventure races and bike packing around Japan. And here he is razzing me up for a mission.
It is my peak training week in preparation for the GPT100. I already have plans for a 40km run Saturday followed by another big one on Sunday. I said to Dan I wanted to run 40km with 1800m of vert. He responded with a GPS route. I opened it to see Frenchmans Cap route. I wasn’t keen initially till I looked at the weather forecast for the weekend. Not being able to resist the allure of an epic day in the mountains I committed to go on the journey.
Adventure Begins
The journey begins at 5am on Saturday morning. Dan picks me up and we begin our long drive. Dan recounts his recent adventure races and feels like he wasn’t able to push to his physical limits. In roundabout terms he was asking me to try and break him. 8 hours was our tentative goal for the day, significantly faster than the 10 hours it took us last time we ran it together. This ambitious goal risked breaking us both.
Running In
We hit the trail just before 8am slightly ahead of schedule. Dan had planned the day so he could get home in time to watch the Rugby league in the evening. The conditions are good for running, cloudy and cool to start. The run into Lake Vera is a breeze on the upgraded tracks. We are at the Lake Vera hut in under 2 hours.
The terrain slows our pace but we continue to move with intention and start to encounter our first walkers of the day. I feel sorry for the walkers lugging heavy packs up Barren Pass while we scamper past them. We start to encounter patches of snow which make us wonder what conditions lay ahead. Soon we are at the top of Barren Pass looking out towards a cloud covered mountain. The forecast says the cloud will clear in the afternoon and we still hold out hopes for a clear summit.
The Ascent
The next section is my favorite. It is a fun mix of technical scrambling and running surrounded by imposing rock formations and expansive views of the South West. At Tahune hut we fill up our flasks and look at the clock. We have 40 minutes to get to the top to do it in under 4 hours. So we push on without delay to climb up into the snowy conditions ahead.
We move forward at a brisk pace and ascend into the snow. The snow is melting rapidly. There is water flowing in cascades down the rocks. The conditions are slippery and treacherous but we seem to be ok while climbing. We pass more hikers on the way up, Dan is so energised he razzes them up like they are old friends patting them on the back vigorously.
We pass the crux section smoothly and hike up with some urgency, we both really want to get up in under 4 hours. Knowing the trail quite well we knew of the false summits and the switchbacks. Seeing the trail flatten out towards us we know we are on the final push to the top. So we both excitedly sprint and even race to the summit cairn. I look down at my watch to see we did it in 3 hours 57 minutes.
The conditions on the summit are perfect, aside from the cloud cover masking the expansive views. It is so favourable that Dan rips off his shirt to cool down from the hard climb. We spend some time relaxing on top. Dan eats a burger and I get into my vegemite and cheese sandwich. After 15 minutes on top we are both still in shorts and tshirts but are starting to cool down. This is a good indication that we should turn around and head back.
The Descent
Dan and I have a synchronised fall on the slippery rocks within a few hundred metres of running. We both realise that running down is going to be a whole different experience. We can’t trust our footing at all which makes running feel unnatural. After many more falls, we both opt for caution over speed and slow down considerably. I am not enjoying the descent. My movement went from joyful and smooth to nervous and jittery.
Once we get below the heavy snow the trail is more runnable. We are back at Tahune hut in 30 minutes. It felt like the descent was taking an eternity but it was quicker than the climb. We refill flasks and chat to some hikers before heading off. The clouds are now lifting. We stop intermittently to take in the views and to talk to more hikers.
The descent down Barren Pass is as bad as I remember it. By this stage, I am stubbing my toes on roots regularly and the pain is cumulative. The roots can’t be trusted. Dan and I are slipping and sliding our way back down towards Lake Vera. I have a moment to think about how awesome it is that we can get out and do such epic adventures on a normal weekend. At Vera hut, we treat ourselves to the caffeine gel we had fantasised about.
The Race to Finish
Fuelled up on stimulants and runnable trails Dan takes off out in front. He is going at a fast fun pace. Whenever he encounters a tree fallen on the track he yells out ‘hurdle’ to warn me and I attempt to jump. This continues for some time till Dan slows down and suggests that I take the lead. He has warmed me up so I am keen to keep pushing the pace.
I have been training a lot lately so I can keep pushing a decent pace without too much effort. I continue flying onwards yelling out ‘hurdle’ back to Dan and listening to hear him keeping up. As the kilometres click by I start to hear the breathing behind me getting laboured. I slowed down a little but the damage had been done. Dan wanted to be broken and he achieved his goal.
I let Dan lead to prevent further destruction. He is nauseous and struggling. We reach the final climb and he struggles up. This small final hill became his greatest hurdle. We caught a hiker that we met earlier in the day. We overtake him but it seems like he is going to catch and overtake us back at the rate we are going.
Finally, we make it to the top. Looking back we can see all of the cloud over the mountain is gone, a few hours too late. We run at a more conservative pace while Dan regains his vitality. Our 8 hour goal is now out the window. Dan no longer cares for time goals. He improves over the final few kilometres and we are soon back at the Franklin River.
The Aftermath
A dip in the Franklin after a Frenchmans trip is a right of passage. We strip down to undies and shoes and wade into the fast flowing river. We walk upstream so we have river room in case we are swept away. The water is painfully cold, but it is a good kind of pain on tired legs. After a few full body dunks Dan is resurrected and I am feeling euphoric. It is a feeling that can only be achieved by running for 8 hours and jumping in a snow melt river.
We walk back to the car and stop the clock at 8 hours 30 minutes. Dan is happy to be done and not worried about missing the Rugby. He factored in enough contingency to still be able to make it home. The healing powers of the Franklin River keep us both alert for the whole drive home. I am back at home in Hobart by 7 pm. Standing in the kitchen I have the surreal feeling of being back where I started. I am completely wrecked and stoked about the amazing Saturday adventure.